
The north route presents minimum technical difficulties but it requires an excellent physical condition. There aren’t any permanent snow fields, although the climbers must be well equipped with good double boots, crampons, and ice axe.
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The Horcones Valley is used to approach the normal route, and the lower part is used as the initial approach to the routes of the south face.
This approach begins at the Horcones Lake, here is a park rangers office, who will check your permit and hand over litter bags; the trekking begins here.
Until you reach the west bank of the Horcones River that rapidly crosses to the east bank across a footbridge and the trail stays on this side for 8 Km, which is the point where the Inferior Horcones River joins the Superior Horcones River.
The Inferior Horcones River is crossed through a footbridge, as soon as you cross this second bridge you must turn left to reach Confluencia.
You can pass Confluencia turning right after you cross the second bridge. The trail stays on the east side of the Horcones River, passing a wet meadow, followed by Piedra Grande. At 12 Km from Confluencia enters from the right the Quebrada del Sargento Mas. Passing this point we find Playa Ancha. The Ibañez campsite is found at the end of Playa Ancha.
Colombia refuge which is destroyed construction, it might be necessary to make at least 5 vados. Then the trail makes a continuos ascent of 2 Km. (the rough ascent) up to the new Plaza de Mulas.
Plaza de Mulas is the traditional base camp of the Normal Route. The Refuge Hotel is found at 1 Km. west from Plaza de Mulas.


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