Home > Aconcagua > Polish Glacier route

   
   

   
 

 
This route ascends the prominent glacier. It is the second most popular route of the Aconcagua, it nature and esthetic makes it the preferred one for those climbers that have a moderate experience.
 
 
 
 


The trail for this route begins in a small seating in the Nº 7 route that connects Argentina and Chile, approximately at 166 kilometers from the city of Mendoza.

From Punta de Vacas walk on the left side of the Vacas River until you reach the primitive Las Leñas refuge. Las Leñas is where the Aconcagua Provincial Park rangers hand out litter bags and check the permits. The approach takes 3 days to Plaza Argentina which is the base camp of this route. The first day of walk is to Las Leñas refuge, the second day of walk is to Casa de Piedra and the third day you reach Plaza Argentina.

Depending on the amount of snow in the winter it might be necessary to cross the Vacas river here. It is better to cross the river a little bit lower from where the refuge is, where the river is wider and less deeper. Continue walking along the Vacas River until you reach the Casa de Piedra refuge located on the west bank of the river directly opposite of the Relincho Valley.

 



The Relinchos begins as a narrow and steep canyon with a good trail on the north side. It might be necessary to cross a couple of times the relincho stream before leaving the Superior Valley. Keep to the south side of the stream until you reach the walls that mark Plaza Argentina.

 
 
 
 


Ice axe and crampons are necessary.
It is necessary to climb from the base camp in east or north east through severe steeps up to the coat of 4700 mts., cross a small stream to the camp under some big rocks which is where the Nº1 camp is installed.

From the Nº1 camp following the direction indicated by some expeditions continue to the next camp in the Portezuelo Ameghino where the camp Nº 2 is installe.Generall y the expeditions keep climbing to the left to the base of the Polish Glacier. There is a small camp at 5700 mts. And a larger one at 5800 meters that is camp Nº 3. Some expeditions use this camp as their height camp. From this camp you must ascend to the right until you reach the glacier.

The lower part of the glacier is flat and consists in penitentes. You must pass these obstacles and make a diagonal traverse ascending to the left, point to Piedra Bandera where camp Nº 4 is located.

You must continue to the east edge of the mountain and continue along this edge until you reach the summit.

 

 


The distance from Punta de Vacas to the base camp is of approximately 60 Km.
Due to the facilities that the ascension gives, many expeditions get to the base of the Polish Glacier by the north west route or normal route, making a traverse from the refuges installed at 6000 meters.

 
 

 

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