Ice axe and crampons are necessary.
It is necessary to climb from the base camp in east
or north east through severe steeps up to the coat
of 4700 mts., cross a small stream to the camp under
some big rocks which is where the Nº1 camp
is installed.
From the Nº1 camp following the direction indicated
by some expeditions continue to the next camp in
the Portezuelo Ameghino where the camp Nº 2
is installe.Generall y the expeditions keep climbing
to the left to the base of the Polish Glacier. There
is a small camp at 5700 mts. And a larger one at
5800 meters that is camp Nº 3. Some expeditions
use this camp as their height camp. From this camp
you must ascend to the right until you reach the
glacier.
The lower part of the glacier is flat and
consists in penitentes. You must pass these
obstacles and make a diagonal traverse ascending
to the left, point to Piedra Bandera where
camp Nº 4 is located.
You must continue
to the east edge of the mountain and continue
along this edge until you reach the summit. |
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The distance from Punta de Vacas to the base
camp is of approximately 60 Km.
Due to the facilities that the ascension gives,
many expeditions get to the base of the Polish
Glacier by the north west route or normal
route, making a traverse from the refuges
installed at 6000 meters.
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